It’s hard not to be a big fan of technology, especially how it can be used to make things easier in our lives. Micro-chipping, for example, has improved the way people find their lost pets by leaps and bounds. It’s now a Standard Operating Procedure, when acquiring a new pet from any number of sources, that a tiny microchip is implanted in the skin of your new pet that’s a permanent, bio-compatible, and non-degenerating identification of the animal.

A recent study showed that lost micro-chipped cats had a return-to-owner rate that’s 20 TIMES higher than if the cat was not micro-chipped at all. And cats that aren’t micro-chipped? Well, only 2% of those ever make it home. In other words, ID collars are great, but only a microchip provides permanent ID that cannot fall off, be removed, or become impossible to read.

So is there anything that could go wrong? Possibly. Most cats that end up at shelters are typically scanned (using a microchip scanner that’s passed over the pet which transmits its microchip’s ID number) for identification. This is a simple way to quickly reunite cats with owners and is typically quite successful.

There have been documented instances when micro-chipped cats were not scanned at shelters at all. How could this happen? Shelters are busy places often with a lot of employee turnover. As new workers begin and others end and new shifts begin and others end, a lot of “holes in the process” open up in which a cat might not get scanned. Shelters do the best they can but aren’t perfect.

The point is that microchips are excellent and every responsible pet owner should be using them. As with any useful technology, you should be using chips as a support tool rather than a be-all and end-all means for retrieving your pet. If you lose your cat, for example, don’t assume that someone is going to find it for you or that someone will scan it at all. Continue to do your due diligence and make your several-times-a-week trips to the shelter and look in all the rooms. Chances are your micro-chipped cat will be there waiting for you!

A humane, live-animal trap is a trap designed to contain an animal without injuring or causing it any harm. Essentially it’s a wire cage with the door held open by means of a catch. Food is placed behind a trip plate in order to lure an animal far inside. When the animal steps on the trip plate, the catch is released which causes the door to drop down behind the animal, enclosing it inside. Although humane traps aren’t designed to cause injuries, the captured animal may still become frightened, so it’s best to get a trap with a quiet mechanism.

Traps are available for purchase at many hardware stores or are available for loan or rent at some animal shelters. Also, there are lost pet organizations that help with traps.

How many traps should you get? Depending on the area you’re trying to cover, it could be 1 or many. If possible, get two – it’s a great start. Having two allows you to place a trap in two areas of a property at the same time and reduces the time and any inconvenience that trapping may cause. If you live in a rural area with multiple locations in which your cat might be hiding, having two traps, obviously, enables you to cover twice as much territory in the same amount of time.

Preparations before trapping…

Get permission from neighbors, if necessary. Take records of any neighbor that allowed you permission to trap on their land and any pertinent details.

Relax, sit down, and do some homework. Create a map of the neighborhood or area of interest. Not on your map the following…

• areas where there have been positive sightings and where you have seen cat hairs, paw prints, or cat waste.
• areas potentially attractive to your cat: heavy brush, decks, sheds, basement crawl spaces, open garages the day your pet disappeared, etc.
• areas your pet would avoid such as any resident pets (particularly dogs), any areas where predators have been seen, high walls and chain link fences, construction or unusual activity the day your pet disappeared, etc.

There are certainly more things to consider when trapping, but this is a good start to get you going.

Is there a time of day where you feel a certain sense of calm or you tend to be more productive or active? I’m a morning person and the time right as the sun is coming up is a great time for me to go for a jog. It’s also a time when I usually do my best thinking, as the day is new and the noise of the day hasn’t substantially built up to cloud my judgment. Everyone is different when it comes to their best time of day. Humans are an animal in which the best time of day deviates from person to person.

Most species of animals don’t deviate when it comes to their most active time of day. It’s not very common to see deer in the middle of the day walking across a street. However, as the day begins to come to a close they become more active and begin to forage for food.

Animals are most active at sunrise and sunset. In the wild these are times of great activity. They are a smaller representation of the changing seasons when animal activity is more pronounced. During a given day, the night shift is retiring in the morning and the day shift comes to life. Domesticated animals, such as our dogs and cats, also have these rhythms to their day. Cats are clearly more active at night and are known to sleep during the day.

However, lost domesticated pets may or may not fall into the same activity pattern as wild animals right away, but will do so over time. Like most animals, dogs and cats have their greatest activity in the morning and early evening. So suffice it to say, the best time to look for them are during these periods. They’ll be moving, following natural instinct to look for food, and preparing for what’s to come.

So when you’re exhausted with a constant search that’s bearing no fruit, consider being more efficient and doing a majority of your pet-recovery in the mornings and evenings. You’ll be more fresh and you’re chances of a sighting will be much higher.

When encountering a dog that appears to be lost or out-of-place, the first thing most people want to do is catch it. This is our first natural reaction. Unless you get very lucky, catching a dog will likely never happen. Old, young, and often ailing dogs almost always are able to outrun even the best human athletes. Often chasing makes things worse. How many times in your life have you chased something that you wanted? I bet that most of the time you never got what you wanted going after it this way. But what is someone to do?

Run away. That’s right, quite often you can catch a dog by running away from it. Get his attention first and then walk/run away. It won’t matter if you walk briskly or run, because you will appear slow to a dog no matter what speed you can muster.

Now the term AWAY can mean moving in the opposite direction or even moving in a large circular motion. Very often a dog will follow you, especially if you make him think that following you is his idea. Once in close proximity, you can attempt to grab his collar. Another strategy is to run into a fenced yard that won’t allow the dog an easy escape.

Have treats with you at all times. Many dogs are food motivated, and even those that are not will eventually become so after a few days. Again, don’t chase after the dog and throw treats at him, but rather squat calmly and place the treat on the ground or hold it in your outstretched hand. Allow him to see you doing this. Then back away and see if the dog responds. With luck, the dog will appreciate the treats and start to trust you which might allow you to get closer during a future attempt.

Be aware of your energy. So why do we not want to appear to a dog to be focusing our attention and energy on it? For one, this is the behavior of a predator. A dog that doesn’t know us will think primal safety first. Look away from the dog and appear to ignore him if you’re placing treats on the ground. Make the dog feel that he isn’t your target. Once I simply lay on the ground, stared at the sky, and before long a curious loose dog came right up to me. Just be aware of the dog’s actions and calibrate what you’re doing. If you are doing something that causes the dog to move away from you then just stop doing that! It seems simple but when we become emotional we tend to lose our logical thinking.

Next, avoid calling the dog’s name. Often during a chase our tone becomes nervous and if the dog hears his name in this manner it can cause more stress. Rather, talk to yourself in a calm way while looking at the dog’s rear end instead of his face. If you know that the dog knows certain words, integrate them into whatever you are saying. Common words or phrases most dogs know are “treats” or “time to go for a walk.” Some animal rescuers have had luck pulling their car up to a dog walking down the street, opening their door, and saying “hop in, let’s go.”

Dog trainers will say that a dog’s name should only be used in a positive way. So when a dog hears his name it should mean good things. Try singing a song using the dog’s name in a rising tone – it may help!

As animals have gone missing since the beginning of time, it’s only recently (last 20-30 years) that the science of finding them has become more organized. There are now years of statistics and case histories that have enabled searchers to draw conclusions as to what should be done and when. These “Tools and Techniques” are more like processes; each with step-wise approaches to doing things right. Many standard techniques that people use can actually decrease the odds of recovering a pet, so follow these steps as they’re given and don’t deviate, even when your emotions are telling you to do other things!

The first Tool and Technique we’ll analyze are Shelter Checks.  A Shelter Check is almost always one of the first and most important courses of action. It can be time-consuming, but it’s worth the effort.  In most jurisdictions it’s a law that anyone who finds a dog is required to notify the local Animal Control agency, or take it to the local public shelter. Many people, with good intentions, don’t follow this law. Why? They believe that, if they take a dog to a shelter/pound, that it will likely be euthanized at some point. This is understandable, but it doesn’t help matters.

Also, a dog on the run for a long period of time can look beat up, dirty, and emaciated. People who encounter such a dog will assume it’s been abused and not take it to a shelter so that the original owner will not be able to get it back and continue abusing it. Well, just about any dog left to its own devices for a couple weeks, eating garbage, running through brambles, etc. will not look pretty no matter how well its owner treated it!

Nevertheless, go to your local shelter, describe your problem, and leave your contact information. Also leave the shelter a photograph of your dog. Don’t stop there though. Go to the shelter, in-person, at LEAST every other day. Shelters are chaotic and busy places and are responsible for a lot of animals, so some situations fall through the cracks. When you go, ask questions and check each room. Don’t assume anything or leave anything to chance. Also ask about rescue groups that are affiliated with the shelter. Sometimes people will give dogs to rescue groups believing that they are “no kill” organizations. As your dog (or other pet) may have travelled, be sure to also check the shelters of neighboring jurisdictions as well.

The point is to make a plan to educated shelters and rescue groups about your missing dog. But it’s up to YOU to continue to do your due diligence, follow-up with these organizations, and not to rely on them to do the work for you.

I am one of those people who sometimes lacks a lot of common sense. If you ask someone close to me they will say I have less common sense than I think I do! Often I struggle with the most simple of concepts and need to see them in a different way…or just get out of my “head” and use the artistic side of my brain.

The idea of Approach Zones is one of those concepts. In theory Approach Zones are very simple to talk about but when put into actionable steps they can become complex. There is an intuitiveness and an art to manipulating Approach Zones. As luck would have it, most animal people are quite intuitive and empathetic to the feelings of those creatures around them.

When approaching an animal, think of your approach in terms of concentric circles, similar to that of ripples in water after tossing in a stone – the ripples change in size and no two stones create the same kind of ripple. The same applies when approaching any kind of animal. In our case, the concentric circles can be given definable names.

First, the Awareness Zone, which is the outer circle. In this zone the animal is aware of the person approaching but shows little or no reaction.

Next is the Alert Zone. In this area the animal’s body language changes and may become defensive or nervous. It will stare at the person cautiously and prepare in most cases to flee or stay and decide to fight. In this zone the person has a lot of control and can actually “shrink” it by acting calm, avoiding eye contact, and doing everything possible to seem like a threat. It’s in this area where intuition can be very helpful. It’s an art, in a way, to calm an animal from a distance with whatever method feels best.

The Action Zone can be thought of as belonging to the animal and this fact should be kept in mind when approaching. It’s here that the animal will react by fleeing, submitting, or fighting. A person should do everything possible NOT to enter this zone. If a capture is to be attempted, do it in the Alert Zone.

There is no clear size or shape that can be given to an Approach Zone as each is different depending on the situation. When approaching an animal, there science and art going on at the same time. The process can’t be rushed as it’s usually dictated by the animal. Think of yourself as “blending” with the situation/animal energetically as you approach. You’ll be using both sides of your brain in an exercise such as this. If you’re a natural at using both sides of your brain you’ll be able to capture the animal faster than you thought possible!

Often, people who’ve had little luck finding their lost pet using various methods want to try using a search dog to sniff out the trail of their pet. If you can’t find your cat could a scent dog work? It depends.

Of course, time is a factor. According to historical records, the majority of successful scent trails that have been worked by search-and-rescue dogs and police bloodhounds (where the dogs actually found the lost person, criminal, or evidence) reveal that the oldest successful trails are about ten to twelve days old.

According to The NPBA (National Police Bloodhound Association), expecting a dog to successfully follow the scent trail of a missing person (and lost pet) that is a month old is a long-shot at best. So be skeptical if someone tells you their dog can find a missing pet after a month of time has passed since its disappearance.

Let’s examine variables that could shorten or extend the length of time a scent trail is viable. If the lost animal in question is a species that doesn’t travel far there will be a specific area that contains their scent in a much stronger way. This is called a scent cone, which is a cloud of scent emanating from the animal. An undisturbed small area will have a strong scent cone which can last a long time.

Of course, environmental factors can influence scents in a big way. A scent trail in a residential area contaminated with other animals, traffic exhaust fumes, wind, sun, etc. will not last as long as a scent trail that was deposited in a cool, damp forest thick with vegetation, no matter how long ago it was deposited.

The point is that scent dogs are an option in finding your lost pet but even they have their limitations. And there are a lot of well-trained and talented search dogs available to help. Consider your unique situation first before going this route in finding your lost pet.

Let’s take search strategy a step further. Before reading on, take a look at how to find The Probability of Area first. The Probability of Area is a great starting point and goes hand-in-hand with The Probability of Detection.

By definition, the Probability of detection (POD) is the chance that the missing animal could be detected by searchers if it was, in fact, within the search area. The goal, of course, is to find the missing animal. Often, though, in the search for the animal a lot of critical clues are missed. So it’s best to focus on finding the clues and eventually the animal will be found because of it. It’s critical that any potential physical evidence is not missed during a search that could be put to good use and give clues to the next step.

What are some factors that could raise or lower a POD? These factors include the size of the search area, type of terrain (mountainous vs flat ground), or heavy foliage (which could serve as concealment spots for animals) vs a lawn with no trees or bushes. Other considerations are the behavior of the animal you are looking for, the number or searchers, and the ease with which they can search in a particular area.

If you have 2 searchers in a certain area and they are spaced 15 feet apart, then maybe you could assign a POD of 90%. If these same 2 searchers are spaced 50 feet apart, then the POD will drop to 60%. You get the idea – the more space that isn’t seen or covered by a searcher causes the POD to drop.

The POD is most useful on animals like cats and reptiles which tend to limit their travel distance from the point of escape. Larger animals such as dogs and horses or any animal that can potentially travel longer distances faster, a POD is not impossible, but more difficult to predict.

In reality, you’ll never have enough time, energy, or resources to search an area as thoroughly as you would like. Therefore, you have to step back, take a deep breath, and give thought to areas your missing pet will likely be found. In search terminology, this is called POA (The Probability of Area).

You already know the area where your pet has gone missing. In size, this area could vary from yards or meters to miles, depending on the animal. Think of your search area in terms of quadrants, each representing about 25% of the total. If it helps, draw or print a grid so you can jot down some notes in each of the quadrants.

What kinds of things should you consider? A good POA is based on various factors…
1. The type of animal
2. The patterns of behavior in the animal (consider indoor vs. outdoor cats/dogs)
3. The environment of the animal
4. The temperament of the animal (you know this better than anyone!)
5. The motivation of the animal (What caused it to run? Was it scared because of fireworks? Was it simply curious?)
6. The terrain of the search area
7. The weather

Now, pick the quadrant that you feel your lost pet will likely be located. Search that area to the best of your ability. If you get no results, that’s not bad news! That only means that the chances are higher (the probability goes up to 33.3%) that your pet is in one of the three remaining quadrants! Just repeat your efforts in the next best quadrant.

Remember, the POA is a strategy and a great way to begin. Very rarely can an area be searched with 100% efficacy. If your pet isn’t found, even with a very high Probability of Detection POD%, there is a small possibility that the missing animal was missed or wasn’t in the search area at the start with.

One of the main factors that influences a dog’s travel distance is its own temperament. The way a dog behaves towards strangers influences how far it might travel when lost before someone intervenes and rescues it. There are THREE behavioral categories into which lost dogs are classified.

GREGARIOUS

You know the type – very social dogs that will likely go directly to the first person who calls them and then greet them in wiggly-butt fashion. Gregarious dogs are usually found close to home or will be picked up by someone close to the point of escape. More often than not, due to their friendly nature, gregarious dogs are often adopted by the people who find them.

ALOOF

Dogs with aloof temperaments are wary of strangers initially and typically try to avoid human contact. When they become hungry enough and have overcome their fear, they will accept contact from people. While these dogs can travel a great distance, aloof dogs eventually can be won over with food and patience, typically by those who know how to approach wary dogs. Dogs with aloof personalities are often not recovered for weeks or months after their escape and usually will appear homeless or abused because of the long amount of time they have spent outside of their home.

XENOPHOBIC

Xenophobia is defined as the “fear of things strange or foreign”. Dogs (and cats too) become xenophobic due to genetics or traumatic experiences when they were puppies. Dogs exhibiting this temperament are more inclined to travel farther and are thus at a higher risk of being hit by cars. Due to their fearful behavior which often presents as cowering, people assume xenophobic dogs were abused by their owner and will refuse to contact them even if the dog is properly tagged. Often, xenophobic dogs will even run from their owners. Baited dogs traps are a great way to recover them without incident.

You know your dog better than anyone. Often a dog won’t fully fit into a specific temperament category but will show characteristics of more than one.

People who are frantically looking for their lost cat often give me quizzical looks when the first question I ask them is to describe their cat’s personality. You see, the temperament of your cat will directly influence its behavior when lost. You know your cat better than anyone else and only you can give the best personality profile of your pet.

It can be difficult  to describe a person that we know. People are complicated and wear different masks for different occasions. Deep down, though, people aren’t  100%  introverted  or extroverted in all situations. Everyone is a blending of some kind and this can make personality descriptions chaotic.

Cats, on the other hand, fit into one of four distinct personality types and will behave according to their personality. This can be very useful information should they become lost or displaced!

CURIOUS/CLOWN CAT

These are cats that don’t scare easily. They are overly-friendly cats that run to meet strangers. When displaced, these cats might hide initially for a short time due to the newness of their situation, but then they will most likely begin to travel. The strategy for finding them should be to place florescent posters within at least a five block radius. Also, interview neighbors in a door-to-door. Thoroughly search possible hiding places in yards of houses and other areas within a close proximity to the escape point. Do not assume that the cat will come when you call!

CARE-LESS CAT

These cats don’t seem to care much about people one way or the other. When a stranger is present, they stand back and  watch. When displaced they will likely initially hide, but eventually they will break cover and come back home, meow, or possibly travel. The strategy should be to search hiding places nearby, interview neighbors door-to-door and search their yards. If these efforts do not produce results, consider setting a baited humane trap.

CAUTIOUS CAT

These cats like people, but when a stranger comes to the door they dart and hide. Some of these cats peek around the corner and eventually come out to investigate. When displaced, they will likely immediately hide in fear. They will typically return to the point where they escaped or they will meow when the owner comes to look for them. This behavior usually is observed either within the first two days (after the cat has built up confidence) or not until seven to ten days later when their hunger or thirst has reached a point where they will respond. The strategy would be to conduct a tightly focused search in neighbors‘ yards and to set baited humane traps.

XENOPHOBIC CAT

Xenophobia means “fear of things strange or foreign”. Xenophobic cats are afraid of EVERYTHING that is unfamiliar. Their fearful behavior is hardwired into their character and  it is caused by genetics and/or kittenhood experiences. These cats will hide when a stranger comes into their home and they typically will not come out until well after the visitor has left. They do not do well when being held or petted and are easily disturbed by any change in their environment. When displaced, they bolt and then HIDE IN SILENCE. They tend to remain in the same hiding place and become virtually immobilized with fear. If they are found by someone other than their owners, they appear to be untamed or “feral”. The primary strategy to recover these cats would be to set baited humane traps. Xenophobic cats that become “lost” are routinely absorbed into the feral cat population.

We often wonder where our lost cat goes. Cats, due to their size, curiosity, and flexibility, can end up in many places, some of which are unexpected.

Trapped
Trapped cats can be found in sheds, basements, inside RV’s or used and unused cars, and neighbor’s homes. They also find their way into chimney’s, walls, underground pipes, under homes, and up poles and trees. Keep an eye open for wires and branches that point inwards towards good hiding places.

Displaced
Believe it or not, many cats escape from facilities such as the vet’s office, pet sitters, boarding facilities, airports, and car accidents.

Injured, ill, or deceased
A cat that’s in unfamiliar territory is subject to many risks. These include being hit by cars, natural causes like illnesses, and wildlife. Wildlife predators that can put a cat at risk are coyotes, hawks and owls, bobcats, raccoons, large snakes, and cougars. It’s unlikely that all of these predators are in your area and sometimes none of them will be. Other physical risks to cats include rat poison and antifreeze. Also, when a cat is injured or sick, it will often become silent as a protective measure.

Stolen
Yes – people steal pets and especially cats. Many purebred and exotic species are targets mainly because they can be resold at a profit. Stealing a pet for revenge against someone is another common motive.

Fireworks, storms, and gunshots
During incidents of loud sounds dogs will run but cats will hide.

Unintentional transport
Cats can find their way into open moving vans, inside transported furniture, service vehicles of plumbers and roofers, and any other open vehicle.

Intentional transport
People will remove cats for many reasons. Cat-hating neighbors that have birds as pets could be the culprits. Apartment and condo managers have been known to do this also.